In a casual, contemporary cantina, a menu of shareable small plates begins with appetizers such as chicken chicharrónes with salsa criolla and steamed mussels with pancetta and aji amarillo butter, and moves on to a list of “causa sushi,” Zarate’s take on sushi that features potato topped with raw seafood. There are also numerous ceviches, tiraditos, anticuchos of meats and seafood, and other specialties including quinoa-pumpkin stew and Peruvian paella with sea urchin sauce. 9575 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.277.0133. www.piccaperu.com