With the name of their restaurant meaning taste buds, Papilles–Hollywood’s newest neighborhood French bistro–has set a high bar for itself, which it achieves with thoughtful cooking by chef Tim Carey and vision by wine enthusiast turned entrepreneur and owner Santos Uy. Papilles embodies the bistronomique movement in Paris, which exalts quality cuisine in a unpretentious environment. Each week Carey crafts a menu that features the best seasonal produce that he finds at local farmers markets, then he features those in a three-course menu that consists of two appetizers, two mains, a cheese selection and a dessert.
The decor is simple, yet colorful, with wine bottles lining the far wall from which you can choose a selection to accompany your meal. Most are natural and biodynamic with an emphasis on lesser known French regions and central and Eastern Europe. If you opt for by-the-glass, Uy carefully selects a red and white to be served each evening. Papilles also offers beer selections by the bottle.
During our visit, Carey delighted our taste buds with a tahitian squash veloute, tahitian squash foam, pomegranate; that was quickly followed by entrees of Idaho ruby trout with red quinoa, golden beets, stinging nettle coulees; and braised beef cheeks with jus, creamy polenta, roasted carrots, glazed turnips. Dessert consisted of either a pear poached in white wine with vanilla ice cream or cheese course with pears and macadamia nuts.
Dinner, Monday-Saturday. 6221 Franklin Ave., L.A., 323.871.2026. www.PapillesLA.com