Buoyed by his buzzed-about dinner party series and “pop-up” appearances, rising chef Miles Thompson (Nobu, Son of a Gun) has moved onto a more permanent project: Allumette, from owners by Bill DiDonna and Charles Kelly. Diners are encouraged to select four to six small plates of “avant-garde comfort food” to create a personalized tasting experience. Start with a vegetable dish such as carrot salad with sunchokes, radishes and pickled turnips, moving on to pasta, fish or shellfish (perhaps grilled octopus with sour apple syrup, cardamom butterscotch potato and sorrel), then perhaps meat or a “for two” dish, topped off by dessert. A cocktail menu from Serena Herrick (Harvard & Stone) offers equally inventive options, including the Gentleman’s Breakfast (The Famous Grouse and Islay scotches, egg white, lemon, ginger honey syrup, topped with atomized candy cap bitters). 1320 Echo Park Ave., Echo Park, 213.935.8787. allumettela.com