Chef/restaurateur Josef Centeno started his empire with the acclaimed Bäco Mercat and followed up with also-praised Bar Amá. Not surprisingly, with Orsa & Winston, the third time’s a charm. The elegant 30-seat restaurant is mere steps away from Centeno’s other two restaurants in downtown’s Old Bank District. Diners can select a five- or nine-course tasting menu, family-style prix fixe or “super omakase” menu of more than 20 courses, available only at the four-seat chef’s counter overlooking the open kitchen. Selections from the frequently changing food menu, inspired by Japanese and Italian traditions, include kanpachi crudo with persimmon, and pork loin with chicken liver mousse and huckleberry. On the beverage list, wines from the Old World mingle with an edited selection of beers and sakes. (Pictured: sawara with carrot sofrito and anchovy jus.) 122 W. 4th St., downtown, 213.687.0300. orsaandwinston.com